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View Textile Magazine no. 134

View Textile Magazine no. 134

A BETTER VIEW Textile View Magazine and View2 united in a new future


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VIEW 134

 

THE FORECAST ISSUEAUTUMN/WINTER 22/23

 

HOW TO SPEND IT?

 

 

Now that we are looking more positively on lifeafter Covid, the big questions in the textile industry are, firstly, whetherconsumers will ever prioritise fashion in the way they did before coronavirus,and, secondly, what kind of clothes they are going to buy – if and when theydo?

The pandemic not only wreaked havocon the economy, but also created more inequality. For many, it has been aperiod of intense financial hardship, with furloughs and increased childcareresponsibilities. Forthose people focused on purchasing essential items, new clothes have been adistant dream and fashion an afterthought, or not considered at all.

 

Onthe other hand, many in salaried positions and in professions such as law,banking, health and counselling were not only able to maintain their status quobut also actually build on savings. During the lockdown, it has been clear thatthe main groups still happy to buy (mostly online) were professionals such asthese, Gen Y (with generous parents) and, of course, the eternally rich.

The general arguments that support a brisk upturn in clothesshopping – though probably not the massive revenge splurge that some dream of –are that the virus is in retreat, vaccination programmes are pushing ahead,many have money in their pockets, consumers are sick of sameness, the weatheris turning, and people want to go out, feel good, be seen and socialise. Butthat still doesn’t tell us what they are going to wear!

Accordingto the CNBC article So Long Sweatpants, published on 5 March 2021, Urban Outfitters reported that women are starting to gravitate back toshopping for dresses. The retailer’s Anthropologie brand stated that in thefinal week of February, seven of its top 10 items were dresses, while beforethat, it was unusual to see just one or two dresses make the list.

Some companies, however, stillbelieve the momentum lies with loungewear, athleisure and sporty performance,and we agree! Comfort, always an apparel issue in recent years, becameparamount during the pandemic. Once you are used to the ease of soft, stretchy,easy constructions, it’s very hard to give that up. Besides, who said everyoneis going back to the office? Most think that companies will start to see theoffice as a hub and combine that with working from home, encouraging whatNordstrom calls Work-from-Anywhere Style. And, almost certainly, companies willrelax dress codes as the workforce returns. One need look no further than thetriumph of sneakers over high heels.

Meanwhile,many newspapers have been asking their readers about pandemic dress habits andpost-pandemic intentions. At The New York Times, Vanessa Friedman concluded, “I was struck by the fact that instead of buying lots ofsmall things, or fast fashion, most of you [readers] went all-in on just a fewthings, or just one very special thing”. In the Guardian, Jess Cartner-Morleysix key trends for 2021 were: floaty blouses; the grown-up flat shoe; the smartcardigan; the 18-hour dress; the toffee-coloured handbag; and, of course,sweatpants!

Whatdo we think at View? Well, there is no single answer to how everyone is going todress once lockdown is over. But that’s how it should be since, as we have alwaysargued, there can no longer be a ‘one solution fits all’ in post-pandemicmarketing and designing, but only fragmented approaches depending on age, workconditions and lifestyle preferences. One thing is certain, however: the future will be hybrid and blended, and, whether seriouslysmart, sexy, fun, responsible or regenerated, it will also be comfortable!

 

 

 

CONTENTS VIEW 134

 

Editor’sView – How to Spend It?

 

01.    

Essentials

It’s everybody’s favouriteguessing game: what will happen next when the Covid crisis ends? Who will bespending? When will they be spending? Where will they be spending? And, aboveall, what will they be buying?

 

The future of making  – after the crisis end

The future of branddirections– the power is in collectives

The future for designers – game changers

 

02.

ContemporaryPreview Autumn/Winter 22/23

Designers are being proactive and responsive. Someare speaking out for those who have been forgotten or downtrodden; some areplacing their beliefs in a quiet and gentle approach that leads by kindness andintegrity; others are angrily fighting and using the fashion platform to raisethe tempo; a new swathe is deeply concerned with gender politics andinclusivity; and more and more key people are embracing vital eco issues.

 

Fabric messages – transitionaldirections from summer to winter

Colour messages – wrap-round colourinspired by nature

Menswear messages  –  thepower to move

Womenswearmessages– blended living and flexi-forward thinking

Womenswear preview – back to normal is notan option

Menswear preview – moments to dress up

Knitwear preview – creativity andtechnical prowess

       

 

 

 

03.

Casual& Athleisure Preview Autumn/Winter 22/23

Theseason draws on a rekindled gratitude for nature, localism, and community. Optimismand joyfulness are a key focus, revitalised through futuristic visions thatserve communities, eco-systems, and inner wellbeing. Lasting consumer anxietiesare soothed through ideas that focus on comfort, protection, and theromanticism of escapism, whether in nature, or online.

 

Casual, athleisure anddenim preview– rekindled gratitude for nature, localism and community

 

04.

ForwardMatter

A problem solving, creative thinking tribe isemerging from the old world. New ideas, new methods, new projects and newcollaborations are flourishing, as if the pandemic had accelerated thechallenges we are facing and the will to find alternative, interdisciplinarysolutions.

 

Creating change – rewriting our lives





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